Replacing a Land Rover Freelander fuel pump- pictures

<span>James plugs in his Snap-On Solus Pro to read the OBD code. Sure enough, ‘Delivery Fuel Pressure Monitoring’ was stored on the ECU.</span>

<span>Seen from under the vehicle, the pump and fuel filter is located just forward of the offside rear wheel, protected from dirt by a plastic cover.</span>

<span>It is possible to change the pump from under the vehicle, but removing a wheel makes it much easier to view and access everything.</span>

<span><span>Likewise the wheelarch liner is removed. It’s held by trim clips and screws. The small leading door trim and top arch panel also needs to come off.</span></span>

<span>With the liner removed, the pump, filter and sediment trap are visible. They are held in one assembly which can be removed from the&nbsp;</span><span class="skimlinks-unlinked">vehicle.With</span><span>&nbsp;the liner removed, th

<span>First, remove the trim clip and thread the ABS cable through the rear cover to remove. Take care not to stress or break the ABS loom cable.</span>

<span>Next, undo the two bolts holding the fuel pump/filter assembly. They may be corroded. Use lubricating spray, and a good ring spanner to aid removal.</span>

<span>The assembly can then be lowered slightly to rest on the suspension arm, as the various fuel feeds and electrical connectors are undone.</span>

<span>Take a note of what goes where or, for complete peace of mind, paint mark each supply before splitting connectors to aid correct fitting later.</span>

<span>The fuel and electrical connectors simply clip apart. Press down the blue release panel on the fuel connectors. Be prepared to catch any fuel spills.</span>

<span>The assembly can now be removed, so it can be worked on at the bench. Fuel will spill, so be sure to mop up any spillage which emerges.</span>

<span>The assembly houses the filter at the bottom, the fuel pump above it and the sediment trap behind. We’re changing filter and pump today.</span>

<span>Undo the sediment trap drain, and empty any residual fuel. A small amount of water may come out first, showing the trap is doing its job.</span>

<span>Remove the filter. This can be stuck quite firmly, so gentle taps with a wide-ended drift, or leather hammer can help to release its grip on the mount.</span>

<span>Note the direction indicator as you remove it. The new one obviously needs to go in the same way. Ours appeared to be the original filter&nbsp;</span><span class="skimlinks-unlinked">unit.Note</span><span>the direction indicator

<span>If unsure, before removing the pump, mark its orientation. It may appear pedantic, but fitting the new one the exact same way is best.</span>

<span>Remove the old pump. This comes out much more easily than the filter! Make a note to save the foam seal for re-use on the new pump.</span>

<span>Fit the foam seal to the leading end of the new pump, then ease it into the housing, noting the orientation. It goes in easily with a little force.</span>

<span>Before refitting the new filter, James applies spray grease to aid removal next time. Noting the flow direction, refit the new filter into the housing.</span>

<span>Ensure both clips are located at the end of the filter and pump, showing both are in the correct place. Check the sediment drain is tight.</span>

<span>Refit the fuel lines - they simply clip on with a gentle push. Use pliers with care on the pump hose clips if you don’t have the correct tool.</span>

<span>Offer the assembly up to the vehicle. Connect the various supply lines and electrical feeds without stressing any of the pipes or cables.</span>

<span>At this point, James' clear marking of each fuel line earlier helps ensure each pipe is connected correctly. it is always a good idea to use paint marks.</span>

<span>Refit the two bolts ( renew if rusted or rounded) holding assembly to the vehicle. A smear of copper grease on threads always helps.</span>

<span>Refit the small rear plastic guard. Carefully thread the ABS cable through the narrow slit in the guard first, then refit the trim clip fixings.</span>

<span>Refit the wheel arch liner, and the two whell arch trims. Carefully feed the liner behind the door arch finisher on the leading edge of the arch</span>

<span>Refit the road wheel, then prime the fuel system by leaving hte ignition on for 30 secs whilst the system re-pressurises. It should start normally.</span>

<span>James clears the stored fault code, then the vehicle is taken on a brief road test to assess performance, and to check for any warning lights illuminating.</span>

<span>James clears the stored fault code, then the vehicle is taken on a brief road test to assess performance, and to check for any warning lights illuminating.</span>

<span>On the road test, the full rev range is gradually explored to check the limp mode problem doesn't re-occur under various engine speeds and throttle loadings.</span>